Two days ago, as the three of us strolled to the taxi rank to find the taxi that would drop me to the airport, a weather-beaten Indian man fell into step beside us.

He leaned over to me with a smile.

Kerala nice, he confided.
Kerala's very nice, I agreed.

India beautiful, he continued.
India's very beautiful, I agreed once more.

He was gaining confidence from my enthusiasm.

'Much silent!' was his next announcement.
Much silent? How could anyone possibly think that about India? Utterly bewildered, I agreed, saluted him and got into the taxi.

Even though I am probably just searching for an event that sums India up so that I can package it up in a nice box as part of my neurotic desire for order, I think this one might be it.

It was unexpected, I enjoyed it and learned from it, it left me baffled but pleased, but most importantly, I want to do it all again.

Well, after a few more months of running water and warm showers, that is.